Max Mara responds to rising global tensions and temperatures with lightness on Milan runway

MILAN (AP) — Max Mara takes a sexy power turn for next summer, showing lots of skin with a touch of fetishism in a collection previewed Thursday during Milan Fashion Week.

Creative director Ian Griffiths created soft volumes out of organza and technical mesh that enhanced shoulders and hips with a twirling ruffle effect. Leaf-shaped organza cutouts were tailored into fluttery skirts and jackets — long and short — that whispered down the runway

The backbone of the collection was the power suit with a hint of fetishism. Pencil skirts and trousers out of stretch jersey were paired with cropped knitwear that showed off belts accenting the bare midriffs. Griffiths linked the fetishistic reference to British style “at its best,” even when elegant and formal.

While the main silhouette was slim and sexy, the wide-legged palazzo pant also had a cameo role.

The collections hewed to Max Mara’s camel and black trademark monochromes, with just one print featuring faded rococo shell and coral images.

Griffiths said his pursuit of lightness was a response to both rising global temperatures and tensions.

“The theme for Max Mara this season is lightness and strength, and capriciousness and playfulness. Playfulness with power,’’ Griffiths said. “I think everyone is looking for a little bit of escapism and poetry in their clothes right now.”

Thai actress Peraya Malisorn in a belted black ensemble and Spanish actress Paz Vega in a gray double-breasted men’s tailored suit made front row appearances.